Exterior Sun Control FAQ’s
Q: How does exterior shading work?
A: Exterior Sun Control Screens absorb and dissipate a large percentage of solar heat and glare before it reaches windows and doors; this keeps the glass and interior cool.
Q: Are Sun Control Screens easy to clean?
A: Yes, they only need an occasional cleaning with mild soap and water. They are also mildew and fade resistant.
Q: Do Sun Control Screens come with a warranty?
A: Yes, Sunpro Mfg offers a warranty on Exterior Sun Control Products.
Q: Do Sun Control Screens block airflow?
A: Exterior sun control products still allow good airflow.
Q: How are Sun Control Screens at insect protection?
A: These products protect against insects and can replace regular insect screening on windows, doors and porches.
Q: Does Sun Control Screening look like standard insect screening?
A: Sun Control Screening is available in a wider range of colors than regular insect screening. From the outside, sun control screening offers a uniform look to windows and doors, providing a more aesthetically pleasing overall look to home and building exteriors than regular insect screening. Outward visibility remains good through exterior sun control.
Q: If I am replacing my insect screens with Sun Control Screening, what spline size should I use?
A: The product that is being installed and the screen frame opening determine spline size. Measure across the opening of the screen frame spline groove and use one size smaller spline for fabrication.
Q: Do Sun Control Screens provide privacy?
A: Visibility through Sun Control Screens depends on light location. Lighted interiors allow inward visibility at night, while sunlight during the daytime diminishes inward visibility, offering more privacy.
Q: Which products provide extra strength?
A: SunTex: Heavy-duty mesh is tear and puncture resistant.
Q: Will Sun Control Screens affect houseplants?
A: No. Most houseplants require filtered light. Shading reduces yellowing and water loss. In most cases, plants do better with shading than without but will require some amounts of direct sunlight.
Q: Can Sun Control Screens be installed over different shapes of windows:
A: Yes. All shapes and sizes of windows can be shaded with sun control products including rakes, octagons, circles, etc.
Q: If I have storm windows or windows containing insulated glass, is Sun Control Screen still effective?
A: Storm windows and insulated glass are effective ways to increase thermal efficiency of any window.
Q: What should be the payback period from utility savings after installing Sun Control Screens?
A: Many Sun Control Screen payback period estimates fall between two and three cooling seasons. A University of Texas study predicts a 32% savings for an average home.
Q: How do Sun Control Screens compare to glass tinting?
A: Glass tinting filters the light along with the UV rays. Sun Control Screens reduce the volume of light without filtering. As the glass filters sunlight through the tint, it will maintain heat, which dissipates into the house, making sun control screens more effective than glass tinting for energy savings.
Q: If I have reflective light-colored drapes or blinds, are Sun Control Screens still beneficial?
A: Yes, along with the heat that is absorbed by the drapes/blinds, they are also subject to UV damage. The combination of light-colored interior shades and dark exterior screens will provide optimum results.
Q: Should Sun Control Screens be removed in the winter?
A: To protect carpets, drapes and furniture from damaging UV rays, the Sun Control Screens should remain in place even during cooler months. They also provide approximately 15% increase in the thermal performance of the window.
Q: Can Sun Control Screens be removed to clean the windows?
A: Yes, Sun Control Screens are removable just like insect screening for ease in washing screens and window glass.
Q: How much will Sun Control Screens darken the interior?
A: While UV blockage is 85% to 90%, actual visibility is diminished by only 20% to 40% depending on the screening fabric selected. Light through the Sun Control Screen is not tinted, but it is reduced in volume, allowing good light with reduced glare.
Q: What color Sun Control Screen is more effective for heat reduction?
A: Dark colors are more effective than light colors on exterior screens.
Q: How much ultraviolet light do Sun Control Screens block?
A: UV blockage depends on the fabric’s weave and openness. In general, the UV blockage percentage will be the reciprocal of the openness factor.
Reflectix is a great product when being used for it’s intended use as a reflective insulation or radiant barrier. It is not intended for use in residential or RV windows. When used on the inside it can break any window whether it is single or double pain. The heat radiated from it will not dissipate through the glass at the needed rate, it will continue to build and eventually the glass could break. It is however, more common for double pain windows to break. It can also ruin window tint or film because of the excessive heat build up.
Windows that have Reflectix used on the inside will radiate enough heat so that the excessive heat can be felt up to 6′ away depending on conditions. The surface tempertuare of the glass can exceed the surface temperature of the wall by 30 to 50 degrees when the outside temperature is approximately 95 degrees.
Windows that have a 90% UV shade fabric will be approximately 30 to 50 degrees cooler than a window using Reflectix. The benefit is you will actually be cooling rather than heating the interior of your RV or home and not causing any damage. When your windows create enough heat to break the glass it is not unlikely that any rubber seals or sealing compounds used for keeping moisture out will be damaged. The other benefit is outside window covers that offer privacy and can be used all year long and do not leave a messy residue on everything they come in contact with.
The choice is yours to make based on your circumstances and needs but, now you have a little more information to help make your decision when purchasing window covers.
For many, carbohydrates have replaced fat as nutrition enemy No.1, with sugar being the most dreaded of all carbs. There still is much debate about how bad sugar is, but one thing is clear: Americans eat too much of it, about 50% more than they did 50 years ago. But the main culprit isn’t those white crystals you may be picturing.
To most people “sugar” means table sugar (sucrose, which is made from cane or beets). There are other types of sugar though, such as glucose, fructose and lactose. Instead of these chemical names, most of us identify sugars by their source: maple syrup, honey, molasses, etc. As far as basic nutrients go, sugar is sugar. But some recent research suggests that fructose, at least in the large quantities many Americans now eat, poses special health problems.
Fructose is the primary sugar in fruit and honey, but those are not the sources of most of our fructose. We’re consuming millions of tons of high-fructose corn syrup (HFCS), which now supplies about 10% of all calories in the U.S. diet. The figure is closer to 20% for some people, including many children.
Developed in 1957, HFCS is a sweetener made from corn starch. Corn has little fructose, but manufacturers process it to boost the fructose content, making it sweeter. In the U.S. about two-thirds of HFCS is used in soft drinks; it is also added to everything from breads and candies to cereals and sauces. HFCS is so widely used because it is sweeter than sucrose, easy to blend and cheap. Corn as a crop is subsidized by the government, and until recently we grew more of it than we could use.
Forty years ago we consumed almost no HFCS and thus much less fructose, but now it has pushed sucrose aside as the leading additive in our foods. Humans have never consumed anything close to this much fructose before, and there’s evidence that our bodies can’t handle large amounts well. The body digests, absorbs and utilizes fructose differently than glucose, our main source of energy. Fructose doesn’t stimulate insulin secretion, which can be good: small to moderate amounts of fructose can help people with type 2 diabetes keep their blood sugar under control. But studies, mostly in animals, have found that large amounts of fructose may actually increase the risk of diabetes, possibly by promoting insulin resistance.
Unlike glucose, fructose is mostly broken down in the liver, where it can affect the production of fats and related substances. Human as well as animal studies suggest that high levels of fructose can contribute to cardiovascular disease by boosting triglycerides, lowering ‘good’ cholesterol and increasing ‘bad’ cholesterol. Though the evidence is inconsistent, high fructose intake has been linked to kidney and liver disease, high blood pressure, systemic inflammation and formation of free radicals. Of course, genetic factors may play a role in how the body copes with large amounts of fructose.
Some researchers point to the increased consumption of HFCS as a prime culprit in the rising obesity rate. They claim that because fructose doesn’t stimulate insulin and may affect other hormones related to appetite, it does not reduce hunger much and thus can encourage overeating. Though, some recent studies found no difference in these effects compared to other caloric sweeteners. Nonetheless, fructose and HFCS clearly play a role in obesity, but it may be just a matter of extra calories.
Do not cut back on fruit because it contains fructose. Fruit is great food, containing fiber, vitamins, minerals and phytochemicals; it is filling and relatively low in calories. In contrast, HFCS, like sucrose, simply adds calories to highly processed foods already lacking in nutrients. In moderation HFCS won’t hurt you. The biggest problem is the sheer quantity of HFCS we’re consuming and the hundreds of calories it adds to the average American’s diet every day.
If you consume lots of HFCS-sweetened soft drinks and foods, or lots of any type of added sugar, consider cutting down. Even though the jury is still out as to whether HFCS is significantly worse than sucrose, if you cut down on foods and drinks that contain it, you’ll almost inevitably improve your diet
Contributed by OP Products, Inc
Breathing fumes on a busy highway or watching the exhaust from a coal-burning power plant dissolve into the blue sky, you may rightfully worry about air pollution. But have you ever thought about the air at home? Probably. Now, what about your RV or trailer?
These vehicles can be much like a home when it comes to construction materials, occupant activities, cleaning substances used and ventilation methods. But they are also smaller, with a lot of interior surface area for the volume enclosed, and may be ‘baked’ at high temperatures in the sun.
Here’s just a sampling of potentially harmful substances found in the air in the average home in concentrations exceeding those in the air outside: benzene, carbon monoxide, chloroform, formaldehyde, PAHs, paradicholoro-benzene, perchloroethylene and pesticides along with other particles and volatile chemicals. The sources of such substances include tobacco smoke, auto exhaust, stoves, furnaces or heaters, dryers, chlorinated water, pressed wood, particleboard, burning food or other organic matter, candles, air fresheners and deodorizers, dust and dust mites, animal dander and saliva residue, flea powders, and pet shampoos – all of which may be found in RVs and trailers, as well as in homes.
Not all pollutants are visible or detectable by smell. Carbon monoxide, for example, is colorless, odorless and tasteless. Still, if you notice unpleasant smells, or if you constantly feel the need to cover up odors, you have a problem. Possible physical signs include flu-like symptoms that hit members of your household all at once; headaches, fatigue, irritated eyes, coughing, skin rashes, and dizziness – especially when noticed inside a space, but which clear up when you leave. The adverse effects depend on individual sensitivities, as well as the levels and types of pollutants. Asthmatics, small children, and people with chronic illnesses are most likely to suffer adverse effects from indoor air pollution.
Even though the long-term effects of all this low-level pollution remain unknown, it makes sense to reduce levels of pollutants in your RV or trailer. You may find it hard to get something done about outdoor air pollution, but it’s relatively easy, and even inexpensive, to keep the air in your RV clean. You can actually improve your air and save money by crossing potential pollutants off your shopping list, such as air fresheners, paste waxes and aerosol polishes.
It’s not possible to have absolutely pure indoor air, but you can keep levels of pollutants reasonably low. Maintaining a flow of air in your living space is the basic way to combat indoor pollution, whether a house or your ‘home away from home’. The first step is simply to open windows and doors (including those between rooms). Even in cold weather, you can keep a window partly open. The second step is to use venting systems, particularly in bathrooms and kitchens. If your bathroom or kitchen lacks windows and vent fans, consider installing proper ventilating fans and a venting hood over your stove. When the weather permits, operate a window fan or a window air conditioner with the vent control open.
Hopefully this information proves helpful in determining whether your RV or trailer has any air-quality concerns. For more helpful tips on keeping your air cleaner – and two ‘fixes’ that don’t actually fix much – don’t forget to check out Part 2 of this article in our next issue!
Contributed by OP Products, Inc.
Bacteria are known as “nature’s cleaners”. Without the presence of bacteria (and their associated enzymes) life would, quite literally, not exist as we know it. Bacteria are essential to the breakdown of human and animal waste. They are also essential to the health and well-being of all species, including humans. Over the course of the last few decades microbiologists have successfully isolated various strains of “beneficial” bacteria for use as cleaners and waste digesters in a number of different commercial and industrial applications. In many cases, it has been found that bacteria are the safest and most effective means for breaking down waste and removing unwanted constituents from a particular environment.
In almost all cases, a high quality bacterial-enzyme solution will outperform chemical-based cleaners for a given application, and it will do so safely. Many of the chemicals used in cleaners are toxic to some degree, and some of them are capable of causing serious injury or death when handled improperly.
The most commonly used chemical in the treatment of waste is formaldehyde. In view of its widespread use, toxicity, and volatility, exposure to formaldehyde is a significant consideration for human health. Formaldehyde kills or retards bacterial growth (including those that are beneficial), is recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency and the World Heath Organization as a probable or known carcinogen, and is toxic to humans (the lethal dose for a 150 lb. person is between 1 ounce to 1 pint). With all of these potential dangers, why is it even used in the treatment of waste? Because it masks odors by preserving waste (as it does when used for embalming) until it can be dumped.
The bacteria used in our products are non-pathogenic, friendly Bacillus bacteria. These types of bacteria are cultivated from natural sources, therefore they are perfectly safe to use in any cleaning or maintenance situation. So how does formaldehyde compare to a bacterial-enzyme formula as a waste treatment option? All things considered, there’s really no comparison at all.
Contributed By OP Products, Inc.
We’ve all heard about the dangers for the “canary in the coalmine”, but what about the “canary in the kitchen”? More importantly, what about the people in the kitchen, who may be cooking with potentially dangerous chemicals, without even realizing it?
The chemical in question is a synthetic called polytetrafluoroetheylene (PTFE), also known as Teflon, which belongs to a group of chemicals known as perfluorinated compounds (PFCs). Toxic fumes from the Teflon coating of nonstick cookware are released from pots and pans at high temperatures, potentially killing pet birds and causing people to exhibit flu-like symptoms (ingesting particles that flake off scratched nonstick cookware isn’t toxic because solid PTFE flakes are inert).
The long-term effects of routine exposure to Teflon fumes, and from “Teflon flu” itself, have not been adequately studied. PFCs have been found in nearly all Americans tested by federal public health officials. Chemicals from this family are associated with smaller birth weight and size in newborn babies, elevated cholesterol, abnormal thyroid hormone levels, liver inflammation and weakened immune defense against disease. The manufacture of these compounds and the consumer products that contain them also poses great risks to the environment and wildlife. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency says PFCs present “persistence, bioaccumulation, and toxicity properties to an extraordinary degree.”
Follow these tips for how to cook with nonstick if necessary, and suggestions for safer alternatives to use when possible:
How to cook with nonstick if you’re ‘stuck’ with it.
- Never preheat nonstick cookware at high heat – empty pans can rapidly reach high temperatures. Heat at the lowest temperature possible to cook your food safely.
- Don’t put nonstick cookware in an oven hotter than 500°.
- Use an exhaust fan over the stove.
- Keep pet birds out of the kitchen – the fumes from an overheated pan can kill a bird in seconds.
- Skip the self-cleaning function on your oven. It cleans by heating to high temperatures, which can release toxic fumes from nonstick interior oven parts.
Choose a safer alternative when buying new cookware.
- Stainless steel – most chefs agree that stainless steel browns foods better than nonstick surfaces.
Cast iron – extremely durable and can be preheated to temperatures that will brown meat and will withstand oven temperatures well above what is considered safe for nonstick.
Contributed By OP Products, Inc.
The RV’s air conditioner cycles on and off endlessly. The fabric is faded. It’s dash . . . cracked. Why?
The owner paid ten’s of thousands of dollars for such a nice rig. Nothing but the best. So why so much damage? The answer?
In two words, the Sun.
Many RV’ers fail to realize the very damaging effects that the sun can have on their beloved RV. By the time they begin to think about getting their RV fitted with quality sunshade window covers the damage is done. So why the wait? Sometimes they simply don’t realize the important benefits. Consider some important reasons why you shouldn’t wait to get covers for your RV’s windows.
RV Window Covers Can . . .
- Protect the interior fabric and dash from the damaging effects of the sun.
- Provide privacy.
- Maintain the value of the RV.
- Help control the temperature and even out your RV’s temperature from one end to the other.
- Save money on replacing sun damaged parts and fabrics.
- Save money on electricity from cooling bills, etc.
- Save wear and tear on your RV’s expensive air conditioning unit.
After considering some of the benefits of upgrading your RV with quality window covers, we’re sure you will no doubt agree with us. Perhaps no other addition to your RV can do so much to protect your investment and save you money. And now, with high-quality Sunshade Covers from Sunpro, cost doesn’t have to be another factor that holds you back from making a smart decision!
Pure Power Blue is a bacterial-enzyme concentrate formulated with proprietary BioBlastPlus™ odor control technology. BioBlastPlus™ technology, developed over the last 10 years, has been scientifically proven to instantly control odors, even in high heat conditions over 120°F. A highly concentrated “bio-active” product, Pure Power Blue will quickly & effectively break down waste, toilet paper, grease & soap scum in both gray & black tanks. Pure Power Blue is a completely safe, natural & biodegradable formulation. Pure Power Blue is much preferred over formaldehyde & chemical products by dump stations, RV parks & state/national parks due to it’s proven benefit to septic systems & sewage treatment facilities.
Chemical free – The traditional method of treating holding tank waste uses chemicals to preserve the waste & mask the odors by neutralizing the existing bacteria essential to the breakdown process, until the tank can be safely dumped. These chemicals can be quite toxic to humans & can cause widespread damage to the environment. The bacteria & enzymes in Pure Power Blue actively break down waste so that it can be returned to the environment in a natural state.
Odor control – Many holding tank products contain strong perfumes because the active ingredients are designed to stop bacterial activity. True odor control can only be achieved when there are sufficient bacteria & enzymes present to actively break down the waste, preventing the formation of gases so often associated with stagnant waste.
Economical – 2 oz. of Pure Power Blue will effectively treat a 40 gal. tank, making it the most economical holding tank treatment available on the market. On a cost per treatment basis, other brands may be as much as 5 times the cost of Pure Power Blue!
Positive environmental impact – The bacteria & enzymes in Pure Power Blue serve to enhance the natural bacterial activity not only in holding tanks, but also in septic systems, dump stations & waste treatment facilities.
Toilet paper – There is no need to use expensive “RV or Marine” toilet paper. Pure Power Blue will break down any household 2-ply toilet paper.
Everything’s ready for the trip. You’re fueled up and ready to go.
You check your tires. Air pressure is good. Tread? Plenty. You’re off!
But then, 100 miles from nowhere, bang! One of the tires has just blown out and you’re fortunate to have been able to stop. What happened? The tire was fine. Why did it blow out when it seemed so perfect?
The answer to this question really reveals one of the most important truths about trailer or RV tires that many don’t realize. Unlike cars, the life or safety of a tire is not determined by the amount of tread on the tire. Many people commonly make the mistake of thinking that since the tires on their RV or trailer have plenty of tread and have not seen many miles that they are still safe. However, this is not necessarily the case. Find out why this is true. Find Out More
Testing to see where this ends up. Everyone tells me a Blog is a necessary tool to be successful on the internet; I guess I will find out soon.
It is just a little more time I don’t have.
- Exterior Sun Control FAQ’s
- The Truth about Reflectix!
- High-Fructose Corn Syrup Attacked – Why?
- Indoor Air Quality: RVs & Trailers – Part 1
- Bacteria vs. Formaldehyde:
- Nonstick Cookware – How Safe are the materials?
- Simple Fix to Many Problems – RV Window Covers
- Pure Power Blue is Here!
- Trailer Tire Safety
- Trial Run
- New Endeavor